The asparagus challenge

April 2nd, 2009 | By: Lynn Rehn

The challenge presented to me for this first article was to select four local restaurants and give them the same vegetable, in this case, asparagus and then see how each kitchen would prepare it.

I picked representative Japanese, Chinese, Hispanic, and American Bistro restaurants. All four owners agreed to participate, and my tasting team came from thinking “what would I want to drink with this dish?” this is how Jennifer Cunningham from Wine Styles and Frank Springmann from Fles Wines, two wine shops located in Issaquah, were asked to suggest wines that you might enjoy with each of these different asparagus preparations.

As a surprise benefit, each restaurant owner agreed to waive corkage fees if you brought a bottle of wine from either store into the restaurant along with your receipt showing that you purchased it from Fles Wine or Winestyles!

The four restaurants participating in this first ethnically-diverse approach to asparagus are; Cascade Garden in the Meadows Center on Gilman, Marcela’s Mexican Grill in the Issaquah Highlands, Sushiman Restaurant off Gilman Blvd, and Iris Grill in Gilman Village.

Cascade Garden

Our tasting crew of five was greeted by Andy Liu, and shown to a large round table for family style dining. This family operation, with Andy’s brother Kenny in the kitchen was busy preparing flank steak and asparagus in a beautiful brown sauce. I asked Andy if asparagus is used regularly in Chinese cooking and he replied that the Chinese cook seasonally which is cost effective and that you would see asparagus offered in several different dishes. Paired with a large dish of steamed rice the aroma of Andy’s Asparagus Beef was mouthwatering. Bright green diagonally-sliced crisp asparagus nestled with thin broad ribbons of steak in a light sauce scented with garlic, sesame oil, oyster sauce and soy sauce. It tasted as inviting as it looked! Jennifer recommended Mecer Pino Gris from Washington, a regional favorite that is stocked in her “Crisp” section. Frank was thinking an Alsacian Gewrztraminer or a German Riesling Kabinett as the ideal accompaniment.

Then Andy, who had stepped into the kitchen, reappeared with a plate of asparagus and prawns in a very light sauce and WOW! what a palate popper that was! The prawns contrasted, yet complimented the asparagus beautifully. By reducing the soy in the sauce and replacing the steak with prawns you have totally different (and delicious) dish!

For the prawn dish Frank would select a dry Vouvray from the Loire valley of France and Jennifer recommends a quality wine from France, Hugues Beaulie Picpoul.

Marcella's Mexican Grill's grilled asparagus and chopped asparagus in a cream sauce.

Marcela’s Mexican Grill

Authentic Marcela’s, family owned and operated is located in the Issaquah Highlands and is a great find. They offer a Happy Hour Menu from 3-6 during the weekdays and 11-5 on the weekends with items ranging from $3.00 to $6.00. Asparagus is grown in Mexico however it is not an ingredient that Hispanic people often use.

First we enjoyed a glass of deep Red Sangria, which they make fresh daily, fresh chips with salsa, pico de gallo, and a sour cream avocado dip.

Chef Armano’s rendering of asparagus was presented on an enormous round platter with both simply grilled whole asparagus spears on a bed of undressed romaine leaves and also chopped asparagus in a cream sauce with cauliflower, broccoli, carrots and shrimp – both served with rice. A sunburst carved avocado half garnished in the center of the platter made it a pleasing and colorful dish.

The grilled asparagus was wonderful and the chopped asparagus was deliciously complimented by its sauce and the warm corn tortilla wraps. All the tasters unanimously agreed that the best thing to have with these dishes was a robust Mexican beer.

Chef Paul Charles' Asparagus and Crab soup - Iris Grill.

Iris Grill

Bill McIntyre’s sophisticated Iris Grill is located in Gilman Village. The interior is soft muted woods and cloth-covered tables with a single iris on each one. Funky and interesting art is adorns the walls and off to one side is their beckoning martini/wine bar.

At a table in the back where Bill presents us with a bottle of New Zealand’s Cloudy Bay, a Sauvignon Blanc from his private cellar. It’s crisp and bright and the perfect drink for the appetizing presentation of Chef Paul Charles’ Asparagus and Crab soup with a tarragon mousse gently swirled on top. The scent of asparagus, crab and the delicate aroma of tarragon wafted up from the bowl. The soup delivered in flavor as much as it did in color and aroma. Bill also poured a 2007 Viognier from Stevens Winery of Yakima Valley. Frank of Fles Wine agreed with Bill’s first selection and carries Cloudy Bay in his shop. Jennifer concurred that a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc would also be her pick.

A trio of asparagus offerings from Sushiman Restaurant

Sushiman Restaurant

Bobbi and Bing Suetsuga have been delighting diners at their Sushiman Restaurant for many years. Bobbi had already prepared four excellent samples of asparagus before we arrived. Never too busy to miss personally greeting his guests as welcome friends, Bobbi without pausing behind the sushi bar gives his signature sideways grin and calls for Bing to escort us past the simply set tables and beautiful hanging kimonos to the private party room.

We were presented with a rectangular plate holding barely blanched asparagus sliced in half and restacked in an offset manner. Tender tips lay diagonally on stalks sprinkled with bonito flakes. A small division in the plate held Natural Sea Salt from Okinawa for dipping the spears and tips before munching on them.

A round ceramic bowl held glistening chopped kale, chard, wakame (sea weed) , sesame seeds, asparagus, kaiware (radish sprout), bonito flakes, and a small mound of Tobiko (flying fish roe) shining on top of all the dark greens. These greens and asparagus were gently tossed together in ponzu sauce (Citrus soy) which is what gave them the shiny appearance. Next to this fantastic array was the best sushi I have eaten to date, four pencil thin asparagus tips wrapped in an expertly sliced thin sheet of raw halibut with a small mound of Tobiko on top. Wasabi and white pickled ginger (Gari) were on the plate as well but I felt the sushi on its own held the perfect bite and balance and needed nothing else. Centered on a white scallop-shell plate was a small bowl of the Okinawa sea salt, in it were whole spears of tempura asparagus – a big hit with my fellow tasters! Bobbi came and described each dish and how everything he prepares is made from all organic ingredients. When I asked about the sea salt, Bobbi explained that the body accepts a natural salt and is better able to absorb the minerals contained in it. Bobbi has a tremendous understanding of his ingredients, what freshness is, and how to combine each element of a dish so that each one flavor or texture is revealed.

Wine suggestions were Gruner Veltliner, and a Portuguese blended white.

I would like to thank each Restaurateur and Chef for their participation; it was a very delicious and educational experience! Recipes for each restaurant’s dish can be found on our website isandbeyond.com

The Chef Lynn Tip:

For inexpensive and fresh local produce I shop The Farmers Markets in both Issaquah and Sammamish! The Farmers Market for Sammamish opens weekly on Wednesday, May 20th on the plaza at City Hall off 228th from 4-8pm ending in October. The Issaquah Farmers Market opens at Pickering Barn by Costco, April 11- October 10. Hours are 9am -2pm.